Author: sales@marshford.co.uk
Cochinita Pibil
Chilli, Chilli every time…..
I first wrote a recipe for a Mexican Salsa in 2014 when we first started to grow tomatillos, its here – https://marshford.co.uk/recipes/tomatillos/. At that time true Mexican cuisine was little known – the chilli con carne with red kidney beans and Nachos were a Tex-Mex invention. Now it seems that it is the flavour of 2024 with every supermarket devoting ever increasing shelf space to various salsas, tacos and of course chillies of varying strengths.
In this recipe I have used achiote paste – this is made from anatto seeds which give a vivid orange hue to this dish and is used in red cheeses e.g. red Leicester. The ground anatto is usually suspended in a vegetable lard and may sometimes be mixed with ground cumin. Its possible to make your own but anatto seeds are very hard so you need a powerful grinder.
I have also developed a sort of cheats Chipottle en Adobo (pictured) but there is not space to put it here, maybe next month!
This is for 2/3 but can easily be bulked up and would go further if served with re-fried beans and tomato rice on the side.
Cochinita Pibil
Ingredients
500g boned pork shoulder in 3 pieces
For the marinade
2 large cloves of garlic, sliced
2 cm stick of cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground allspice
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ancho chilli flakes
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 Tablespoon achiote paste (20g)
juice of ½ an orange
juice of half a lemon
To serve
6 x 15cm tortillas
wedges of lime and avocado
soured cream
pickled red onions
chipottle sauce
fresh coriander
tomato and pepper salad
slices of jalpeño chillies (optional)
Directions
Take a small heavy based frying pan and put over a low heat. When it is hot put the sliced garlic in it and toast for a few minutes, turning them over as they begin to char. Put them in a pestle and mortar or molcajete.
Toast the cinnamon stick, cumin seeds and the black peppercorns. Put the cinnamon stick aside and place the other spices with the garlic, add the salt and grind together to form a paste. Put this in a bowl big enough to hold the meat and add all the other marinade ingredients. You may need to warm the achiote paste to get it to amalgamate properly – 20 seconds in the microwave is ideal. Put the meat in the marinade, turning over to make sure it is all coated. Cover the bowl and put it in the fridge for at least 4 – 6 hours, preferably overnight.
When you are ready to cook, either place the meat with the marinade in a slow cooker for 6 – 8 hours or put it in a casserole with a tight fitting lid and set it in a low oven (140ºC) for around 4 hours. Turn the meat over a couple of times during the cooking time and, if using the oven method, check it is not drying out – add a little water if so. When cooked, the meat should be very tender and flaking. Remove to a plate and pull it apart with 2 forks.
Warm the tortillas. Pour the remaining sauce over the meat, squeeze some lime juice on it and sprinkle the chopped coriander over it. Serve with the accompaniments suggested above.
Chicken Stock – make your own!
For the last few years I have been writing vegan recipes for January but in 2024 I have decide to concentrate more on budget recipes. It is possible to produce healthy, nutritious food with no nasties for a relatively small cost, but this means something else has to be added, and in this case, it is time!
Not all of the time is taken up in one go, nor does it have to be done at the start of preparing a meal to be consumed there and then. It can just be fitted in around other tasks. I have broken the process down into key stages to make it easier. Compared to buying ready made stock this is a good money saver and we have a deal on the carcasses at the moment – 2 for the price of one!The real bonus though is that you get enough chicken bits to make a meal plus oodles of lovely stock to make your other dishes really tasty. Plus there is a bit of offal which your pet is sure to enjoy!
Chicken Stock
Ingredients
1 chicken carcass
1 lemon, halved
2 bayleaves
Directions
1. Remove the carcass from the packaging. Remove the neck from the bag of giblets. Place the carcass and the neck in a large pan with the lemon and bay leaves. Cover with water and place a lid on top. Bring to boiling point on the hob with a high setting. The minute boiling point is reached, turn the heat down and simmer for around 25 minutes turning the carcass now and then to make sure it is evenly cooked. You may have to fiddle with heat settings and the pan lid to keep it at simmering point.
2. After 25 minutes turn the pan off and remove the carcass into a large sieve or colander. Drain over a bowl. Cover the pan of half made stock with the lid. When the carcass has cooled down, pick off all the meat and place in a small dish. There will be chunks on the underside and under the shoulder bones. The short simmering time ensures the meat is cooked through ready to be incorporated into something else, but still retains its flavour and texture.
TIP 1 : At this point, the three components (liquid, meat and bones) can be wrapped and stored in the fridge if time is short.
3. Return the bones to the liquid and bring to the boil again. Cover and turn the heat down to very low. Simmer for around 3 – 4 hours. If you have a slow cooker, this is ideal for this step, you can leave it for 12 hours or even longer if this fits in with your routine.
4. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve into a bowl to remove any small bits of bone that may have come free. The stock is now ready to use. To store – pour the stock into smaller containers as this helps it to cool faster. Label and when cooled sufficiently, place in the fridge or freezer. Use within 5 days if in the fridge, 3 months if frozen. Makes approximately 3 x 550ml.
TIP 2 – Sweat together some chopped leeks, mushrooms and the chicken meat, add a little stock mixed with cornflour for a pie filling or cook some red lentils with onions and curry powder, add the chicken, a teaspoon of mango chutney and a teaspoon of chopped lime pickle for a mock “dhansak”.
Christmassy Mini Pavlovas
The festive season is now well and truly on us and with the holidays comes a different style of eating, apart from the big day – I have heard it recently described as a more “relaxed” way of eating! I take this to mean more informal eating times to fit in with other leisure activities and a bit of socialising – maybe the odd glass of wine or an unscheduled break for coffee. So there are the usual savoury offerings ; pate, veggie dips, quiche, sausage rolls (either meat or veggie) but not much finger food that is sweet (apart from the ubiquitous mince pies!). So………..these are SWEET! The citrussy tang of kumquat really complements the sweetness tho and gives it the true taste of Christmas.
Makes 24
Mini Christmas Pavlovas
Ingredients
2 egg whites
115g castor sugar
1 teaspoon cornflour
1 teaspoon cider vinegar
25g raisins
25g sultans
25g dried sweetened cranberries
75ml medium sweet sherry
1 Tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon cornflour
1 Tablespoon water
½ teaspoon mixed spice
3 kumquats
paper cake cases
Put the raisins, sultanas, cranberries and sherry in a bowl with a tight fitting lid. Leave to infuse at least overnight, 24 hours is better, 48 is great!
Shake occasionally to make sure the fruit is immersed.
To cook the meringues, set the oven to 120°C.
Beat the egg whites in a bowl until stiff with a handheld electric whisk if you have one.
When the egg whites are forming soft peaks, add half the sugar and whisk again until glossy. Add half the remaining sugar and whisk again. Add the cornflour to the rest of the sugar, add to the meringue and whisk again.
Fold in the cider vinegar.
Put the paper cases in a bun tin.
Using 2 spoons put a dessert spoon size dollop of the mixture in each case.
Flatten the meringue with the back of a spoon dipped in cold water.
Place in the oven to bake. After 45 minutes take them out and gently push the centre flat if it has risen. You may need to swap the shelves that the meringues are on around to ensure even cooking. When they are cooked, about 1 hour 20 minutes approximately, turn the oven off and prop the door slightly ajar with a wooden spoon. Leave the meringues in the oven to cool.
For the topping, set a sieve over a small bowl and drain the dried fruit, reserving the sherried juices. Make up to 75ml with water and mix well.
Mix the cornflour with 1 Tablespoon of this in a small bowl.
Turn the fruit out onto a plate and run a knife through it several times to cut it into small pieces.
Put the sugar and the rest of the juice in a small pan over a low heat, add the mixed spice and stir until the sugar has melted.
Pour in the cornflour mix and continue to heat stirring continuously until the liquid has thickened.
Add the soaked dried fruit and heat through.
Set aside to cool.
At this point, the cooled meringues can be stored in an airtight container for a few days and the topping can be stored in a screw topped container in the fridge until needed. You can then serve a portion of them when required and save the rest for another occasion.
When ready to serve, cut the kumquats into very thin slices and cut each slice to form a twist.
Check the meringues come free easily from the paper cases, so that the cases can be used as mini plates in the hand.
Top the meringues with a little of the fruit mixture and place the kumquat twists on top.
Lentil Pancakes with Spring Greens and Leeks
Over pancake day I had been experimenting with various savoury types and wanted to produce a vegan one with a high protein content. Remembering the southern Indian Vadas, I thought a similar mixture could be utilized in a flat form. They would more usually be made with split mung or even black urid dahl but I have chosen the more common red split lentil. Batter mixtures without wheat or eggs are a lot harder to handle and it is imperative to soak the lentils first. This helps to aerate it and gives a much lighter batter and also helps to keep it together in the pan. Another key factor is just to use a small amount of batter so that you are able to get the spatula easily around it and it is not too big to flip over. I have used Greek yoghurt but if you want to maintain the vegan status, use a soya or coconut one instead. This recipe is also gluten free.
Topped with the seasonal greens and leeks this is a tasty snack or starter and also makes a great weekend brunch. Makes about 8
Lentil Pancakes with Spring Greens and Leeks
Ingredients
For the batter
75g red lentils, soaked overnight then drained
75ml water
1 Tablespoon cornflour
½ teaspoon gluten free baking powder
½ teaspoon turmeric
½ teaspoon ground coriander seed
½ teaspoon ground cumin seed
½ teaspoon chilli powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon chopped coriander
For the topping
150g spring greens
1 medium leek
½ teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon ginger/garlic paste
To cook
coconut or olive oil
To serve
Yoghurt, mango chutney, chopped coriander
First make the batter. Add all the ingredients except the coriander leaf to a hand blender and wazz until as smooth as possible. Stir in the chopped coriander leaf and set aside to rest. The longer you can rest it for, the easier it will be to handle.
Clean the spring greens and remove any hard stalks and tough outside leaves. Slice crossways across the stem.
Trim the leeks of any tough green bits (save for making stock) and wash them. Cut across into rounds.
Heat some oil in a heavy bottomed pan and add the ginger/garlic paste. Fry for 30 seconds or so and add the turmeric and spring greens. Stir to coat and add a tablespoon of water. Cover with a lid and turn the heat to low. Cook for around 5 minutes until the greens are soft adding more water if necessary to stop it catching. Add the leeks, just to soften them, replace the lid and set aside.
Take a heavy based frying pan, 15 -20 cm is ideal, and place it on a low heat. Brush some oil over it with a pastry brush. If using coconut fat, it is best to melt this first and have it on hand in a small pot. Stir the batter mixture with a fork in case it has started to separate. Take a heaped dessert spoon of the mixture and place in the middle of the frying pan. Ease it out with the back of the spoon in a circular motion to around 10 cm. Turn the heat up very slightly and baste around the outside of the pancake with more oil. As it begins to set, slide a metal spatula around the edges, pushing the oil underneath and loosening the pancake. Eventually it will come free, brush the top with more oil, flip it over and cook the other side. When it is done remove to a plate and keep warm.
Draw the pan to the side and allow to cool a fraction, then brush with oil and repeat until all the mixture is used.
To serve, place some of the topping on a pancake and top with yoghurt, mango chutney and coriander leaf.
Moorish Red Cabbage
A braised red cabbage dish is a staple of the festive season and this version with dates, orange, sherry and the spicing has definite north African/southern Spain vibes hence the “Moors” in the title. It would go really well with duck or goose (think duck a l’orange!) or equally well with a nice chestnut roast. It’s “beefed” up a bit with the addition of beetroot – this just deepens the colour, flavour and overall texture.
Its a great make-ahead recipe, easy to freeze and just reheat on the day. This quantity will serve 6 people but will go round more depending on how many other veg you are serving and/or willing hands to do the prep!
Moorish Red Cabbage
Ingredients
500g red cabbage
120g red onion
120g (100g prepped) beetroot
4 medjool dates, stoned and chopped
1 orange
125 ml sherry
1 Tablespoon balsamic vinegar
water to cover
5 cloves
1 stick cinnamon
60g butter
salt and black pepper
1 pomegranate (optional)
Peel and thinly slice the beetroot. Place the slices on top of each other and slice through them to form julienne strips. Slice the cabbage as thinly as possible, discarding any tough stems and rough outside leaves. Peel and thinly slice the onion. Cut the orange in half. Take one half and grate the zest, then extract the juice, reserving until the final stage. Take the other half and stick the cloves in it, about half way up from the cut side.
Put about 2/3 of the butter in a heavy bottomed casserole type pan with a lid. Melt over a medium slow heat and toss in the onions. When they begin to go transparent, add the cabbage and the beetroot and stir everything around for a few minutes. Add the chopped dates, orange zest and cinnamon stick and mix in. Season to taste with salt and black pepper and place the orange cut side down in the centre. Turn the heat to very low and add the sherry, vinegar and scant water to barely cover. Cook for approx. 45 minutes, keeping an eye on it every 5 mins, stirring and topping up the water if it is drying out too much. Alternatively place in a low oven for an hour.
Whilst the cabbage is cooking, take the pomegranate and roll it with your hand on the work surface to loosen the seeds. Make a small slit halfway and save any juice that runs out. Cut completely in half and scoop the seeds out, removing any hard pithy type bits.
When the cabbage mixture is all soft, cooked through and most of the liquid has evaporated, taste it and correct the seasoning.
When you are ready to serve, add the remaining butter and stir in until its melted and the vegetables are shiny. Add the reserved orange juice and turn onto a warmed serving plate. Pour the pomegranate juice over and scatter the seeds on top (if using). So pretty!
Beetroot Dahl
I have many recipes for various lentil dishes, along with onions, garlic and ginger, many of the older ones contain a mixture of vegetables such as aubergine, squash, courgette etc – these are the sort of thing that may be in the garden all year round in warmer climes. I have always advocated substituting ingredients for the things you have at the time, my winter standbys are carrot and celery. In this case, being autumn, we do have a glut of beetroot (it just seems to go on growing!) so this would fit quite well. The earthy taste of the lentils partner well with the sweeter beetroot, which is balanced by the lemon juice and mustard seeds. This does make about 6 portions but it has many uses— it can be served as it is as an accompaniment or used as a sauce for eggs or other vegetables. Try it Borani style dotted with a curd cheese or feta and served with pickled radish and flatbreads. If there is any still left over, the addition of coconut milk would make a delicious, creamy soup.
Beetroot and Lentils
Ingredients
60g red lentils
45g green lentils
45g homedod split fava beans
15g garlic
15g ginger
½ teaspoon salt
300g onion, sliced
½ cinnamon stick
2 green cardamom, bashed
3 pips star anise
4 cloves
2 bay (or curry) leaves
2 level Tablespoons curry powder
375g beetroot
1 teaspoon cumin seed
6 Tablespoons butter or coconut oil or 90 ml oil
2 green chillies
1 Tablespoon black mustard seeds
juice of 1 lemon
1 Tablespoon chopped coriander
First put the lentils and split beans in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave for at least an hour then rinse in cold water until it runs clear.
Peel the garlic and ginger and pound with the salt in a pestle and mortar.
Put 2 tablespoon of fat in a saucepan with the onions and fry until they turn translucent. Add the ginger garlic mix, the cinnamon stick, the cardamoms, the star anise and the cloves. Continue to stir and fry for 5 minutes, until the onions turn golden. Add the curry powder, bay leaves and the drained lentils. Mix well and turn in the fat. Add 750ml water, cover with a lid and simmer until the lentils are cooked through, about 45 minutes.
Whilst the lentils are cooking, wash, peel and cut the beetroot, first into half, then into crescent shape slices. (I would normally advocate roasting the beetroot but in Sept 22 I cannot justify the cost of switching on the oven for one beetroot!) Put a heavy based frying pan on to heat. Crush the cumin seeds and place in the pan with the beetroot and a tablespoon of your chosen fat. Cook and stir for about 5 minutes until the aroma rises from the cumin seeds. Pour enough water in to just cover the beetroot then place a tight fitting lid on top and turn the heat to low. Stir every ten minutes or so, keeping the beetroot covered with water, until it is very soft. Remove the lid, turn the heat up slightly and drive off any remaining water, until the beetroot just starts to caramelize. Leave to cool slightly.
When the lentils are all cooked and soft put about half of them in a blender with the beetroot and cumin. Take care to leave the leaves and the rest of the whole spices in the pan! Blend till smooth – this may have to be done in 2 batches -then stir back into the remaining lentils. Taste and season with salt and black pepper. You may wish to blend more or less of the lentils – the final texture is up to your preference. You may wish to reserve a few spoonfuls to place on top in a serving dish.
Put the remaining fat in a small frying pan and heat till hot. Add the chilli and the mustard seeds and fry until they start to pop. Pour over the lentils, followed by the lemon juice and coriander.
Summer Thali
August is a month of overflowing produce from the garden – beans, tomatoes, courgettes and herbs. Here in North Devon its also quite unpredictable weather, searing temperatures of a heatwave one minute, westerly wind streams with grey skies and thunder the next. The inspiration for this was borne out of not wanting to do too much cooking in the heatwave, but wanting to use a variety of the best fresh ingredients, without taking up too much time in one go. So its sort of based on a thali idea – lots of small dishes on one plate all brought together with a spiced coconut sauce. It can all be made in stages then just heated through when ready to serve. Don’t be put off by the long list of different seeds – just use the ones you have – the idea is to get a different flavour for each veg. I think a dish of dahl would be appropriate too and would elevate this from lunch or supper to a main meal but there is not room to include a recipe here. Although I prefer to make my own, we do have some good tinned dahl available from our shop. Serves 2
Thali style Courgette, Beans and Tomatoes with Coconut Cream Sauce
Ingredients
100g onions
1 knob of butter or a slug of olive oil
For the Courgettes
200g courgettes
1 Tablespoon butter or olive oil
1 Tablespoon sesame seeds
For the Beans
120g green beans
2 teaspoons whole grain mustard
1 teaspoon maple syrup
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
2 teaspoons olive oil
For the Tomatoes
4 tomatoes approx 375g
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 teaspoon nigella seeds
1 Tablespoon butter or olive oil
pinch of salt
For the Sauce
knob fresh tumeric
½ teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon garlic/ginger paste
1 Tablepoon olive oil
200ml tinned coconut cream
½ teaspoon red chilli powder
1 star anise
1 stick cinnamon bark
3 curry or 1 bay leaves
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
½ teaspoon garam masala
To Serve
1 Tablespoon basil chopped
1 green chilli, finely sliced
1 clove garlic sliced
cooked rice
First make the coconut sauce as this will give a standing time to allow the flavours to develop. Peel and slice the tumeric and pound it with the salt in a pestle and mortar. Heat the oil and fry the ginger/garlic paste for a few minutes, then add the tumeric paste, the cinnamon bark and the star anise. Stir around until the spices release their aroma. Add the lemon zest, chilli powder, the leaves, 200ml water and the coconut cream. Bring to the boil and turn the heat down to a simmer. Cook until it has reduced to a thick sauce, stir in the garam masala and remove from the heat.
Finely slice the onions across to form crescent shapes. Fry in the oil over a low heat until starting to go soft and translucent. Fry for a minute or so more until golden and remove half of them to be used with the beans. Continue to stir and fry until the remainder is starting to caramelize and go reddish brown. Remove from the heat and set aside. (Continued on page 2)
Meanwhile top and tail the beans and cut into 2-3 cm lengths. Boil in water for about 4 minutes, drain and set aside. Mix the mustard, syrup, vinegar and oil in a small bowl and toss the beans in it whilst still warm. Chop the golden fried onions and mix in.
Cut the courgettes in quarters lengthways and remove any large seedy bits in the middle. Chop across into 1 cm bits and fry over a high heat in the butter. When the courgette is beginning to take on colour, add the sesame seeds and continue to stir and fry until the seeds have taken on a darker hue. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Cut the tomatoes in half through the core. Remove the core by making a v shaped cut either side of it. Heat the butter or oil in a frying pan just big enough to take the tomato halves in one layer and add the cumin and nigella seeds. When they start to splutter place the tomatoes cut side down in the pan. When they are seared, add 50ml water and a pinch of salt, lower the heat and cover with a lid. When the water has cooked out, flip the tomatoes over to cook the outsides for a few minutes.
When you are ready to serve, strain and gently reheat the coconut sauce. Divide into individual bowls. Fry the chilli and garlic slices in hot oil and spoon onto the coconut sauce. Place a mound of rice and a bowl of the coconut sauce on each plate. Spoon a pile of each vegetable onto the plate and garnish with the remaining caramelized onions and the chopped basil.
Nut Croustade with Roasted Winter Veg
January is almost over and the memories of Christmas are fading fast. What a weird one it was! It seemed to be split between households full of food with suddenly no visitors and unexpectedly stay at home households with no food!
If you still have left over root vegetables lurking somewhere (and of course, the Christmas nuts) then this is the recipe for you! This is a vegan version (for Veganuary), but if you also have cheese to use up it works just as well – grate a little both into the crumb and on to sprinkle on top.
This is what I call a thinking-outside-the-box vegan recipe where the protein element forms an integral part of the dish in the crumb – not the usual meat substitute and 3 veg!
Serve with a jacket potato, home-made tomato sauce (tomatoes from a can is fine) and a green salad. You will need a 23cm flan tin or 4 x 13cm ones.
Ingredients
For the Croustade
- 155g Breadcrumbs freshly made from 2/3 day old bread
- 125g of mixed nuts broken into crumbs in a processor
- 50g Coconut Fat
- 1Tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
- For the topping
- 650g mixed root vegetables (carrot, parsnip, celeriac, squash & sweet potato are all good)
- 3 Tablespoon olive oil
- 1 clove of garlic, crushed and finely chopped
- a few sprigs of sage or thyme
- 1medium leek (about 85 g) cleaned and cut into 1 cm pieces
- 1½ Tablespoons cornflour
- 250ml non dairy milk
- salt and pepper to taste
- 1 Tablespoon nutritional yeast flakes
To Garnish
- 1 Tablespoon olive oil
- 1 teaspoon lemon juice
- 2 Tablespoons chopped parsley
Directions
Set the oven to 195ºC.
Wash the root vegetables and peel where necessary, you should have about 520g.
Blanch the carrots in a pan of boiling water for about 2 minutes as they will take longer to cook.
Cut all the roots into chunks about 1 cm and put them in an ovenproof tray, sprinkle with the garlic, herbs and 2 Tablespoons olive oil. Turn the veg in the oil and roast in the oven for about 35 minutes, until the are soft and beginning to caramelize.
Whilst the veg are roasting, make the croustade.
Rub the coconut fat into the breadcrumbs with your fingers and when incorporated, mix in the other ingredients. Reserve about one third of the mixture and tip the remaining two thirds into the flan tin, pressing down to form an even layer.
Bake for 20 minutes on a shelf under the vegetables, remove from the oven and set aside.
Sauté the leeks in the remaining olive oil on a low heat until they are soft. Mix the cornflour in a mug with a little of the non dairy milk to form a paste, then incorporate the rest of the liquid. Pour this into the pan with the leeks and stir continuously until it has thickened.
Season with the salt and pepper to taste.
All these steps can be done up to a day in advance and refrigerated until needed.
To assemble, fold the roasted veg into the leek sauce and spread over the base.
Sprinkle with the remaining third of the croustade mix, leaving it loose on top and sprinkle with the nutritional yeast flakes and the extra olive oil.
Bake in a hot oven for 20 – 25 minutes until the top is golden.
To make the garnish, mix the olive oil, lemon juice and chopped parsley together. Serve this with the croustade.
To serve, put a mound of black rice on a plate with a few slices of squash leaning on it. Pile the chickpea curry in the front and garnish with the ginger, chilli, coriander and a squeeze of lemon juice.
Now just see if you can spot that witch!
Christmas Muffins
These muffins are full of Christmas flavours – fruit, spice, and orange but are lighter than the traditional Christmas pudding and a lot quicker to cook! They can be served instead of the pudding or cake or can be eaten for breakfast on Christmas morning. The fruit really does benefit from at least 24 hours soaking but you can speed things up a bit by mixing all the ingredients and wazzing in the microwave for 30 seconds. This does help to plump the fruit up and absorb the flavours of the spices. I quite often soak double the quantity as it will keep over the Christmas period in a closed container in the fridge and a spoonful will perk up all sorts of things – left over red cabbage, sliced brussel sprouts, glazed carrots in the veg line and of course, its handy for making more muffins!
Ingredients
- zest of ½ an orange
- 80g raisins
- 25g cranberries (I used the ones pre-soaked in apple juice)
- ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
- ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
- 3 Tablespoons brandy
- 30g dark brown sugar
- 250g SR flour
- 5 teaspoons doves baking powder
- ½ teaspoon bicarb powder
- 100g castor sugar
- ½ teaspoon mixed spice
- juice of an orange
- 150ml milk (approx)
- 75 g melted butter
- 1 large egg
Directions
The day before cooking the muffins (see note above), place the raisins, cranberries, spices and the brandy in a small bowl. Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil and add the orange zest. Simmer for 5 minutes, drain and refresh with cold water. This removes any bitterness in the rind. Drain thoroughly and cut into the most narrow strips you can. Add to the bowl and cover, shaking from time to time to mix all the lovely flavours and to make sure all the spirit is absorbed by the fruit.
When you are ready to cook preset the oven to 210°C and line a muffin tin with paper cases. Mix the dark brown sugar into the spiced fruit.
Combine the flour, baking powder, bicarb, spice and castor sugar in a large bowl. Mix the milk and orange juice in a measuring jug, topping up to the 200ml mark with milk. Beat the egg lightly and add to the jug. Pour in the melted butter, give it a quick stir and pour into the dry ingredients, lightly mixing everything together. I find a large fork best for this as the mixture is quite stiff and the fork helps to smooth the lumps out without beating it too much.
When everything is mixed, put into the paper cases with two teaspoons – the cases should be about ¾ full. Put a heaped teaspoon of the fruit mixture in the centre of each and place in the hot oven. After 10 minutes, turn the oven down to 200°C and cook for a further 8 – 10 minutes when they should be risen and golden brown. Test they are cooked with a toothpick, which should come out clean when inserted into the spongy part. Serve with cream or brandy butter if you like.
Macaroni Cheese with Tuna and Sweetcorn
November Comfort Food
It seems you can’t walk into a café or pub these days without a version of Mac’n’Cheese on offer and its even available as a ready meal! I must admit there is something quite alluring about the creamy sauce coating pasta, a lovely one dish meal to eat by the fire or watching TV. It really is an easy dish to make and I love “bakes” as putting the oven on warms the kitchen and the smells pervade throughout the home – a real test of comfort food.
I can’t remember exactly where this version came from – I’ve been cooking it since the kids were small and has proved a winner over time. It has endless possibilities of course, layering anchovies or roasted strips of red pepper over the top pizza style for one, sliced tomato perhaps or even dotted with “salad seaweed” such as dulse. Its also quite good to finish up any soft cheese, crème fraiche etc., just reduce the amount of milk a little to compensate. I like to use a mixture of grated cheese as well – it just depends what you have in the fridge. One of the red cheeses gives great colour to the sauce and parmesan sprinkled on the top makes a slightly crusty finish. Serves 2 or 3.
Ingredients
- 175g elbow macaroni (gomitini)
- 135g onions
- 1 Tablespoon Olive oil
- 2 cloves garlic
- ½ teaspoon dried oregano
- 50g cornflour
- 650ml milk
- 160g tin tuna in olive oil (sustainably fished)
- 140g sweetcorn from a can
- 1 Tablespoon chopped parsley
- 150g cheese, grated
- salt and black pepper
Directions
Bring a pan of water to the boil and add the gomitini. Turn the heat down to a simmer and cook for 8 minutes (the pasta should not be cooked all the way through). Place a cup in the sink and drain the pasta in a colander over the cup to catch some of the pasta water. Remove the cup from the sink and run the pasta under cold water to stop further cooking. Shake well and leave to drain.
Finely slice the onions and sauté in the olive oil until they are transparent. Crush the garlic and add to the pan. Stir and fry for a few minutes then add the dried oregano and 250ml of the reserved pasta water. Simmer until the onions are cooked through – most of the water will evaporate.
Whilst they are cooking, mix the cornflour with half the milk in a small bowl. It helps to do this with a hand blender to make sure it is well incorporated and also this would be the time to add any other bits of soft cheese etc. (see above). Add the rest of the milk to the bowl.
Return to the pan with the onions. Add the can of tuna with all the oil and break up the lumps. Add the sweetcorn. Place over a low heat and add the milk mixture. Gently stir this mixture until it thickens and then remove from the heat.
Add half the pasta then two thirds of the cheese and stir well. You may need to do this in the pan you originally cooked the pasta in. Add the remaining pasta, stir and season with the salt and pepper. Pour this into an oven-proof casserole, sprinkle the parsley on top and cover with the remaining cheese. Place into a preheated oven at 185ºC for approximately 20 – 25 minutes until the top is golden and bubbly. Serve with a green salad.
Black Chickpea Curry with Squash and Black Rice
Autumn has come in all its glory. I love the colours of the leaves and the few last rays of sunshine before the winter. It is also the time of bountiful harvests, the last of the summer tomatoes and time to harvest squash and apples. Squash are so much more interesting to eat than the pumpkins usually associated with the end of October. But that apart, we have two new products that are just ideal for Halloween food – Black Chickpeas and Black Rice! I can just imagine a witch flying over the “moon” crescents of the squash in the picture…………
Black chickpeas have a more fibrous coating than the normal ones which makes them more suitable for canning – no chance of them going mushy under pressure! They also have a better nutrition profile.
The black rice is now grown extensively in Italy although it originated in China where it was known as the “forbidden rice”. The colouring is due to flavonoids in the rice and has a nutty flavour.
I do like to make my own curry sauces but it does take some time for the spices to mingle and to reach the right consistency. This time, after the initial frying process, I put the whole lot in a slow cooker for 8 hours and then in the fridge for use the next day. This could easily be doubled up and the surplus frozen for future use. I think it actually does taste better the next day.
Ingredients
- 1 tin black chick peas
- 200g onions
- ¼ bulb garlic
- 1” knob of ginger
- 2 Tablespoons of oil
- ½ stick celery
- ½ small carrot
- A green chilli slit
- 300g tomatoes
- 170ml water
- 400g squash
- Black pepper
- 165g black rice
- To garnish – ½ Lemon, coriander leaf, green chillies & ginger julienne
Spices
- 1½ teaspoons cumin seed
- 1” stick cinnamon
- 2 cloves
- 2 cardamom
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 teaspoon dried fenugreek
- 1 teaspoon red paprika
- 1 teaspoon garam masala
- 1½ teasp. ground coriander
- ½ teaspoon tumeric
- ½ teaspoon salt
Directions
First make the sauce. Chop the onions finely and sauté in the oil. Peel and chop the garlic and ginger and add to the pan, stirring for a few minutes more. Add the whole spices and the bayleaf. When the onion begins to colour add the ground spices, turn them a few times and add the water. Chop the tomatoes, carrot and celery and add them, with the green chilli. Cover and simmer over a low heat until the vegetables are all cooked (see above). Remove from the heat and allow to cool a little. Set aside a ladleful (removing any tomato skin) fish out any whole spices, and blitz the rest. Add the reserved ladleful back in to give a bit of texture.
Meanwhile, put the rice in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave it to soak for at least 30 minutes, preferably 1 hour. Drain and rinse with cold water shaking off as much water as possible.
Preheat the oven to 195°C. Cut the squash into crescents about 1½ cm thick at their widest. Grease an oven proof tray and lay the squash slices on it. Brush with a little oil and make a few turns of black pepper over them. Roast for 40 minutes.
Drain and rinse the black chickpeas.
Put the drained rice in a saucepan with 600ml of water. Bring to the boil, covered and then turn the heat down to a simmer. It should take 30 – 35 minutes to cook and absorb all the water. Keep an eye on it as it gets near the end of the cooking time. Add salt to taste and turn off the heat. Leave to rest for 5 minutes in the covered pan.
When you are ready to serve, reheat the sauce and add the chickpeas. Cook for 5 minutes to thoroughly heat through. Adjust seasoning if necessary. Add a knob of butter (or coconut cream from a block if vegan) to give it a glossy shine.
To serve, put a mound of black rice on a plate with a few slices of squash leaning on it. Pile the chickpea curry in the front and garnish with the ginger, chilli, coriander and a squeeze of lemon juice.
Now just see if you can spot that witch!
Courgette and Basil Pakoras with Tomato Chilli Jam
One of the vegetables that is normally in full swing in July are courgettes – not so this year (2021)! The cold spring and the low light levels in May and June have meant that the poor plants have just sat there, hardly growing at all. This is usually a time when all efforts to pick them young fail and there are always a few that escape. However with the recent appearance of the sun and the increase in temperatures they have sprung into full production at last.
I made this from 2 that had grown too large and had formed seeds inside. I cut them into quarters lengthways and removed the seeds and the woolly bits in the centre and just used the firm flesh. The original weight of the courgettes was 535g from which I gleaned 375g of usable flesh. After the water had been removed (see instructions), it only weighed 165g!
This quantity will make about 15.
Courgette and Basil Pakoras with Tomato Chilli Jam
Ingredients
375g courgette flesh
1 Tablespoon salt
15g basil
50g gram flour
½ teaspoon paprika
½ teaspoon tumeric
½ teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon whole cumin seed
½ teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
75g Greek yoghurt
1 Tablespoon olive oil
I teaspoon black onion seeds
1 clove garlic
275g tomatoes
½ teaspoon salt
40g sugar
chilli flakes to taste
Approx. 500ml sunflower oil for deep frying.
Coarsely grate the courgettes and place in a large bowl. Add the salt, mix well and leave for at least 30 minutes to draw out the water.
Mix the gram flour, spices, bicarb and Greek yoghurt together in a bowl that will be large enough to take the courgette flesh as well.
Meanwhile, make the tomato chilli jam.
Peel and core the tomatoes and chop roughly.
Finely dice the clove of garlic.
Heat the oil in a small saucepan and when it is hot, put in the black onion seeds. When they begin to sizzle, put in the garlic. Stir and fry until the garlic starts to take on colour. Lower the heat and add the chopped tomatoes carefully, as the hot oil will spit. Cook until the tomatoes have softened, stirring and mashing them with the back of a spoon. Add the salt, sugar and chilli flakes and cook until the mixture has become thickened and syrupy. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
Return to the courgettes. Rinse all the salt out of them under running water, drain and rinse again. Put in a muslin bag (or a thin clean tea towel) and squeeze until all the liquid has gone. Unwrap and place in a sieve, just to make sure there is no excess water left – it will make the batter too runny.
Coarsely chop the basil.
Place a small saucepan on the heat and add the oil to heat up. Fold the courgettes and the basil into the batter making sure it is all mixed together and the courgettes are coated all over.
Take a teaspoon of the mixture and shape it with another teaspoon. Slide it into the hot oil. Repeat 3 times and fry the pakoras until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon onto a dish lined with kitchen paper. Repeat this process until all the mixture is used up. It is important not to overcrowd the pan otherwise they will be soggy or worse still, the temperature of the oil will drop and they will not hold together!
Serve hot or cold with the jam as a dipping sauce.
Asparagus and Broad Beans in a Cashew Nut Sauce
The winter of 20/21 seems to have been the longest EVER and the spring has been so cold! Now, with the easing of lockdown, there is a sense of relief and, as ever, the relentless passing of the seasons heralds this renewal. The new spring veggies are particularly welcome at this time and the vibrant flavours truly remind one of new beginnings.
The origins of using cashew nuts in a sauce is largely Asian (as in korma) but many cultures use nuts as a creamy non-dairy base with or without other flavourings – think pesto, muhamara, tarator etc. I have not used stronger flavours here – it is all about the veg after all!
Asparagus and Broad Beans with a Cashew Nut Sauce
Ingredients
1 bunch asparagus
1kg broad beans
1 Tablespoon finely chopped spring onions
100g cashew nuts
100ml water
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Rock salt
A few chilli flakes
Olive oil for drizzling
Soak the cashew nuts in boiling water for 2 hours to soften them.
Put them in the container of a hand blender with the 100ml water and blend until smooth. Add the olive oil and lemon juice and blend again. Add salt to taste.
Shell the broad beans; there should be about 200g. Bring a small quantity of water to boil, there should be just enough to cover the beans. When the water is boiling, add the beans, cover and bring back to the boil. Simmer for 1 minute and then drain. Plunge the beans into a bowl of cold water to stop them cooking and leave for 2 minutes then drain and set aside.
Cut the woody stalks from the asparagus and rinse under the tap. Place in a glass dish with a lid and microwave for 2 minutes. It is possible to steam them if you prefer, but it is hard to get the stalks cooked without ruining the tips. Leave to rest for 5 minutes.
When you are ready to serve, place a table spoon of the sauce on each of 2 or 3 plates and sprinkle some of the spring onions on it. Arrange the asparagus on top followed by the broad beans. Top with the remaining spring onions and chilli flakes if using and drizzle with olive oil. Serve immediately.
Salmon With Cucumber Relish
Tastes of Summer!
A crisp tasting cucumber relish to compliment a lightly spiced fish dish makes for the quintessential flavours of summer. Each 125g fillet can be served with new potatoes and a green salad as a main dish. It can also be served on toasted sourdough or cooked mini filo cases as a starter, topped with the cucumber relish. Serves 2 as a main, 4 as a starter
Veganuary Heart of the Home Stew
Veganuary is here!
As I write Storm Brendan et al has been and gone – there is wind and rain a plenty! Here in North Devon we know all about this in the winter months. It’s time to snuggle up and make this comforting plant based stew. The trick here is to make layers of flavour within a single pot; the long cooking time of the pulses gives ample opportunity for this.
